RB Stone Info

All tile grouts fall into two general categories: cement-based grout and epoxy grout. Grouts used for tiling should not be confused with caulks, which are elastomeric materials used for filling gaps between various building materials.

Cement-based grouts have a base of portland cement, but they differ in the types of additives they contain. Most come in powdered form to which water or liquid latex is added. Cement-based grouts include commercial portland cement, dry-set and latex-portland cement grouts. Latex-portland cement grout is the most versatile grout for residential applications.

Epoxy grout contains an epoxy resin and hardener, giving it a high degree of chemical resistance, excellent bond strength and superior impact resistance. It is the most expensive of the grouts, and therefore usually confined to industrial and commercial applications. It is somewhat thick and not easy to apply though. If your tiles are more than 1/2-inch thick and the grout joints are less than 1/4- inch wide*, the grout will not penetrate.

(*Rock Bottom Tile and Stone generally recommends grout joints of approximately 1/8’’ thick or smaller for most projects, but up to 1/4” thick can also be acceptable based on personal preference)

When it comes to cement-based grouts there are basically two form variations:

SANDED GROUT and UNSANDED GROUT

SANDED GROUT is used to fill wider grout joints. Sand (usually silica sand) is added to the basic portland cement along with colorants and other additives. When sand is added this increases strength and lends bulk for filler. Sanded grout is generally used in grout lines that exceed 1/16 inch in width.

UNSANDED GROUT is reserved for smaller grout lines around 1/16 inch or less. It might be noted that some natural stone tiles such as granite and marble are placed very close together having usually a 1/16 inch grout line and generally not more than 1/8 inch wide.

There are additives that can also be used (added) in grouts at mixing time to promote a stronger more stain resistant product when cured.

Grout sealers are also available for application to the grouts surface after it has thoroughly dried/cured. Grout sealers are strongly recommended.

*Grout information courtesy of johnbridge.com

 

From small mosaics to large slabs, travertine stone tile patterns are used for:

• Kitchen Floors
• Kitchen Backsplashes
• Counters
• Entryway Floors
• Interior Walls
• Outdoor Walls
• Fireplace Surrounds
• Bathroom Floors
• Bathroom Walls and Backsplashes
• Tub Surrounds
• Outdoor Patios and Walkways

Travertine tile is a natural material that has unique features that no other stone can offer. Travertine is a relatively hard stone. The distinctive design of Travertine tile patterns creates some of the most distinguished floor tiles. The stone is characterized by tiny crevices, pitted holes and veins of contrasting color. Travertine is ideal for commercial and residential use. It can be used for floor tile, kitchen flooring, bathroom wall tile, bathroom floor tile, and it is often used externally.

While travertine has been extensively quarried in Iran, it is also mined in Afghanistan, China, Greece, Guatemala, Italy, Mexico, Peru, Turkey and the US. Once it has been quarried it is cut for use in construction. Travertine can be ordered in various thicknesses. Travertine tile patterns will vary in quality, density, porosity and hardness. These qualities should be considered in conjunction with their intended use. High traffic and outdoor applications, for example, should use a harder stone.

Travertine is a form of massive calcium carbonate, CaCO 3 , resulting from deposition by springs or rivers. It is often beautifully colored and banded as a result of the presence of iron compounds or other (e.g., organic) impurities. This material is variously known as calc-sinter and calcareous tufa (when used for decorative purposes), in fact Travertine is actually a dense closely compacted form of limestone

Travertine is an excellent product for residential and commercial use and is becoming increasingly popular because not only does it have the elegant look of marble, but also once sealed Travertine tiles require very little maintenance, which allows for a timeless & beautiful appearance.

Travertine is available in a number of finishes ranging from polish, cross-cut, regular-cut, honed & filled, honed & unfilled, tumbled, distressed-edge, patinato and unpolished to name a few.

Travertine tile possess a wide range of colors, and cover the spectrum from pure white to deep mahogany. The various hues of Travertine tile can sometimes be constant throughout large pieces and at times are blended. Travertine tile displays distinct veins at times and is a very sturdy natural stone.

How To Seal Travertine Stone Tile

1. Select a sealer specifically made to be used on travertine, or on all types of stone. Any other type of sealer may create stains and will affect the durability of your travertine tile.
2. Clean the travertine tile with the cleanser recommended by the manufacturer of the sealer you chose. The chemicals in the two products should be formulated to work together and provide you with the best results.
3. Use a spray bottle and wet the entire surface of the travertine tile you plan to seal. Wait for the water to begin drying, typically after just a few minutes.
4. Rewet your travertine tile with the sealer. Make sure the entire surface of the travertine tile is covered with the sealer.
5. Wait 30 minutes and wipe away any excess sealer with a clean white cloth.
6. Remove an excessive buildup of sealer by rewetting the area with more sealer and wiping it away again with a clean white cloth.
7. Allow the newly sealed travertine tile to cure for 48 hours to get the strongest seal.

The most widely used rating system for green building is LEED® (Leadership in Energy and Environment Design). The LEED® Green Building Rating System™ was established by the nation's leading coalition on sustainable building, the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC), in 1998. The system defines standards for environmentally responsible, healthier, and more profitable structures. Points are awarded to new construction & Atmosphere & Resources ® points under the Regional Material credits. But, more can be done to promote natural stone as a sustainable building material, and major renovation in five categories:

• Sustainable Sites
• Water Efficiency
• Energy
• Materials
• Indoor Environmental Quality

Right now, only natural stone that is local to the project can contribute LEED

Natural stone currently offers many attractive, environmentally-friendly attributes, including: Life cycle assessment examines the environmental costs and benefits of a product from its original extraction to its final ® programs. —Life-cycle costing assesses initial costs (design/construction), operating costs (energy, water, sewage, waste, recycling and other An important principle in sustainable building is to limit or reduce the use of potable water. Sustainable building helps divert construction, demolition and land-clearing debris from disposal in landfills and incinerators. Material reuse diverts salvaged material from the landfills and reduces demand and costs for virgin materials.

The Natural Stone Council aims to further position natural stone as the preferred material in sustainable building by:

• Using the five key categories of the LEED
• Establishing an Advisory Council made up of architects, designers, specification writers and others with an intimate knowledge of natural stone and its uses in building and landscaping
• Promoting the use of natural stone through media outreach

® rating system as a guide to research, test, and substantiate that stone is a natural choice in building green

• An enduring life-cycle
• Durability
• Ease of care and maintenance
• Recyclability
• Quarry and manufacturing best practices

The Natural Stone Council is committed to partnering with researchers and various industry experts to test the environmental impacts and benefits of building with natural stone.
Several areas of exploration exist:

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)—disposal. The USGBC intends to integrate aspects of LCA into future LEED

• Life Cycle Cost (LCC), maintenance, repair and replacement costs, and any other environmental or social costs.
• Water Use Reduction—
• Construction Waste Management—
• Material Reuse—

Stains of every kind can affect tiles and grout joints. Refer to the following list for some of the most common staining problems and potential solutions. Most of the recommended cleaning agents are common household products and can be purchased from the local supermarket.

Problem

- Remover

Blood

- Baking soda, bleach, hydrogen peroxide

Chewing gum

- Ice cubes, paint remover

Coffee

- Baking soda, bleach, household cleaners, hydrogen peroxide

Dyes

- Bleach

Efflorescence

- Diluted phosphoric acid according to the instructions on the packaging

Fats

- Detergent, sal soda

Fruit juices

- Baking soda, bleach, household cleaners, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid

Grease

- Detergent, plaster of Paris, sal soda

Ink

- Baking soda, bleach

Iodine

- Ammonia

Lipstick

- Bleach, household cleaners, hydrogen peroxide

Mildew

- Ammonia, baking soda, bleach

Motor oil

- Plaster of Paris

Mustard

- Bleach

Nail polish

- Bleach, nail polish remover

Paint

- Paint remover

Rust

- Baking soda, scouring powders

Tar

- Ice cubes, paint remover

Tea

- Bleach, household cleaners, hydrogen peroxide

Tough stains

- Oxalic acid

Vegetable oil

- Baking soda, detergent

Water/mineral stains

- White vinegar

Wax

- Ice cubes, paint remover

Wet paper

- Bleach

Wine

- Baking soda

Always refer to the directions on the packet before using any cleaning products and check for efficacy and safety.

Product

- Description

Acids (eg phosphoric)

- Test on a small part of the material to be cleaned. Use with caution, diluted as per product label. Always neutralise acid after cleaning or it will continue to burn the surface. Use a suitable alkaline agent (eg dishwashing liquid diluted in water) and flush with water.

Ammonia

- Comes in a liquid form for cleaning purposes. Never mix ammonia of any kind with chlorine bleach. These products react chemically and release a poison gas. Always read product labels to be sure cleaners which you are mixing do not contain any ammonia or chlorine bleach.

Baking soda

- Also called bi-carbonate of soda. Comes in a powder form for cleaning purposes. Mix with water to form a paste.

Bleach

- Note caution under ammonia. Also, never mix bleach with acids of any kind as this combination can react chemically and be dangerous. Bleach, also know as chlorinated bleach and household bleach, comes in a liquid form.

Caustic soda

- A 5% sodium hydroxide solution

Detergent

- Common household cleaners available in all supermarkets under various brand names.

Household cleaners

- Includes both detergents and non-detergents available in all supermarkets under various brand names. Comes in powder and liquid form.

Hydrogen peroxide

- Comes in a liquid form. Usually sold in the pharmacy section of the supermarket.

Ice cubes

- Can be made in the household refrigerator.

Oxalic acid

- A strong chemical bleach which should not be used or confused with chlorine bleach. Oxalic acid comes in liquid form.

Paint remover

- Commercial product available in liquid form in any paint or hardware store. Be especially careful when using this product. Some people are allergic to the chemicals in paint removers. It can also be highly flammable.

Plaster of Paris

- A commercial product that may be purchased in any paint or hardware store. Available in powder form and mixed with water for cleaning purposes.

Nail polish remover

- A commercial product available in the pharmacy section of the supermarket. Can be highly flammable. Comes in a liquid form.

Sal soda

- This product is mixed with water for cleaning purposes.

Scouring powders

- Available in most supermarkets. Always test on a small sample section of the tile or grout before using to be sure that the product will not scratch the surface.

White vinegar

- Always test on a small sample section